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Journeys, a Creative Travel Blog
What motivates us to travel? It is certainly the need to get away from our daily routine, but more than that, it is our unquenchable curiosity about the way other people live, think, and work. Come blog with us! Send your contribution to
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| Oops, corrections to previous blogs - 25 april 2010 After an unusual travel period, I find myself musing at how unreliable what I took for granted became. We travelled to Paris, Prague, Crakow and Dresden, as planned... only the world happened to ignore what was so carefully and so thoughtfully planned!
First, Paris! Much to my dismay and disappointment, two of the restaurants I had recommended very highly, recently closed their doors: Laurier, at the Galeries Lafayette and Oh!.. Poivrier. It's not the first time I experience such disappointments, over the years, La Castafiore on Ile Saint-Louis and Tarte Julie with several locations all over France, also closed. How sad for my tastebuds!
On April 12, we arrived in the late evening, after a long train ride, in Crakow, the former capital of Poland, and today, its cultural and spiritual center. We had looked forward to several jazz clubs recommended by musicians we know, and we had also planned to attend several classical music performances, especially concerts of Frederic Chopin's music. As we stepped out to explore, the next morning, we were told that the president of Poland had just died in a plane crash in Russia. The Polish nation went into mourning and all performances were cancelled for that week.
As we returned to Prague on April 15 to catch the next day's flight back to Paris, we found the airport shut down by the volcanic dust cloud which was drifting across Europe; no flights to anywhere until further notice. Czech Airlines tried to be helpful and first found us seats on the next days flights, it took 40 minutes waiting for an agent to answer the phone! The next day, airports were still shut down, so we dashed to the railroad station and got train tickets for Paris, leaving the next day at 3:30am, we even found a hotel downtown, a miracle in itself (the superb, contemporary Yasmin Hotel, at reasonable prices). It took over 13 hours to reach Paris! The ride was not uncomfortable, just incredibly long -- the flight would have taken less than two hours.
Back in Paris, our airline (AA) expected our April 21 evening flight to New York to leave as planned, and confirmed that on the 20th when I called. Happily, we set off to Roissy airport. The flight had been cancelled after all! Panicked, we went to the desk and the attendant offered seats on the same flight on April 28!!! As it was uncacceptable, we asserted ourselves and refused it; the attendant looked further and found us Premium Class seats on an Air France flight, some 90 minutes later, at no aditional cost. How that was possible, I have no idea... the two airlines are not part of the same system. I suppose that when you make courteous demands with a smile, you get what you want or need.
By the time we got back home, we needed a vacation to rest from our vacation!
| Preparing for travel - 17 march 2010  | | Prague Astronomical Clock - Ph. by D. Santal |
When I help travelers plan a trip, I advise them to do some research to make sure their destination will be what they are looking for or what they hope to find there. With the Internet, this is an easy and very pleasant endeavor. Paying attention to my own advice, having chosen to visit two new places I had never seen before, I went ahead and researched our destinations.
I am about to go back to Paris for my bi-annual family visit, and as always, selected an additional corner of France or Europe to explore. Last fall, on the History Channel, there was a documentary on Dresden in Germany: it showed how the allies, at the end of World War II, had unnecessarily bombed it, reducing it to rubble. I understand that this was unnessary as the war had already been won and Hitler defeated. Today, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it has been restored to its medieval appearance almost completely; I find it interesting that the rubble of the original buildings, therefore the original stones, were used to achieve that. The capital of Saxony in Eastern Germany, looked so appealing that we decided to visit it. Because it is only a two-hour train ride from Dresden to Prague, we also decided to return to the capital of the Czech Republic; we added Crakow (also spelled Krakow), in Poland, adding a much longer train ride further east, to our itinerary.
My first preparations led me to the internet: a quick search revealed untold treasures and photographs! Each website gave me information about the layout, the must-see places, the museums, the restaurants. Once I knew that, I could decide on a hotel, preferably not too far from the railroad station and a good fit for our budget. I also found out that the Czech Republic and Poland, although members of the European Union, are not yet using the Euro as their official currency, that will occur on January 1, 2012.
Initially, we had thought of flying from Paris to Dresden, then driving to Prague, then to Cracow, and finally flying back to Paris. It became quickly obvious that flying to and back from Prague was much more convenient with several daily and short, non-stop flights. Driving between Prague and Cracow would have meant 6 to 8 hours on the road... as our main interest was the cities themselves, taking the train was the obvious option, so we took it. Fares on European trains are quite reasonable, even the long rides are comfortable and generally pleasant; I was just sorry that there were no high-speed trains for our itinerary... but nothing is perfect.
Prague,CzechRepublic
Dresden (Saxony), Germany, Online photographs of Dresden
Krakow, Poland
Prague on the Vltava River - M. of Contemporary Art Crakow Fortress in the center of the city
| Shopping in Paris - 15 february 2010  | | Fancy store window - Ph. by D. Morrill |
Who would go to Paris and not set time aside for shopping? I was raised by a mother who loved to shop! She was convinced that comparison shopping meant that the more expensive of two items was necessarily of better quality: that's the only aspect of shopping that I have overcome becoming an adult. My favorite buys when I go to Paris are handbags, shoes, sweaters, and also things for my house in the United States: I am a bargain hunter and I like to visit department stores when there are sales, better known as "SOLDES".
When stores have sales, you can see the word "Soldes" prominently displayed in their windows: there are two official sale periods in all European Union countries, one starts in the second week of January, the other in June: those are the best bargain times, but informal sales occur at other times too. I tend to prefer deparment store sales because there is more choice and I can browse to my heart's content without pressure from a salesperson, so I highly recommend Le Printemps, Les Galeries Lafayette, both on Boulevard Haussman, Le Bon Marché on Rue de Sèvres in the 7th arrondissement, and Le BHV (Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville) on Rue de Rivoli, next door to the Paris City Hall. The latter is especially good for housewares and it has a basement full of tools and gadgets.
When taking a walk, it's important to pay attention to stores that specialize in "sales": their names incorporate the word "soldes", for instance "Griff'soldes" ("griffe" in this context means "label", such as designer label): choice is limited as to size but worth the effort of browsing along with huge crowds of bargain hunters. Flea markets are also great for clothes, I especially like Les Puces de Montreuil (Saturdays and Sundays only); Les Puces de la Porte de Vanves has become an antiques market, more or less, I have seen great turn-of-the-century (the 20th century) furniture. The former is a block away from the Porte de Montreuil Métro station, while the latter is at the Porte de Vanves Métro Station.
At La Maroquinerie Saint-Honoré, there are very good buys for small leather goods (handbags, wallets, etc.) and some nice costume jewelry: the designs are very contemporary, in a huge variety of colors. The nearest Métro station is Palais-Royal, not far from my favorite restaurant (Le Petit Mâchon), at 334 Rue St-Honoré. By the way, the exit at that station has a really interesting design, it's on Place du Palais-Royal, next to the Comédie Française theater.
At Miracle, contemporary and various objects (blown-glass, exclusively) are available at excellent prices for the quality: and the color choice is dazzling. The shop is at 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, in the delightful 6th arrondissement on the Left Bank: the streets are crowded, there are cheese stores next door to bake shops ("pâtisseries") next door to butchers next door to fruit and vegetable stands, not forgetting cafés and restaurants.
| Eating in Paris - 8 february 2010  | | At the seafood stand - Ph. by D. Santal |
Once you have a nice room for resting from those long leisurely walks in the city of lights, you will need to indulge in a special meal. And there, I would like to make special recommendations: not all of them are in central Paris, but they are well worth a Métro or a taxi ride. Reservations are usually not necessary, but I recommend them anyway as they are very popular with Parisians; just ask your hotel desk to make the call. Without reservations, arrive before 1:00 pm for lunch on a weekday, as local offices empty at that time and restaurants are very busy; or before 7:30 pm for dinner, Parisians dine at 8:00 pm at the earliest. A little bit of caution: not all wait staff or management speak English, as the clientele is mostly Parisian, but don't be shy, it's part of the fun!
Two city blocks from the Louvre, my favorite, bar none, is Le Petit Mâchon, an informal restaurant I discovered by accident: the cuisine hails from Lyon, and my favorite dish is the "quenelle lyonnaise", it is made with pike, has the consistency of a soufflé, smooth and rich-tasting -- there are daily specials, aim for a fixed price treat, usually two or three courses. Prices are very reasonable indeed for such quality.
158 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré 75001 - Tel: 01 42 60 08 06
L'Arganier has one of the best brunches in Paris, buffet style, with a "fixed price", eat and enjoy as much as you want, and you can keep refilling your plate; the food is abundant, rich, and varied: it reminds me of Morocco (the arganier is a Moroccan tree). The atmosphere is friendly, informal, very pleasant indeed, and the crowd is young and lively without being overwhelming: not a problem for the not so young bunch.
19 Rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie 75004 - Tel: 01 42 72 08 25
A bit out of the way, La Cave Gourmande, a café, has a dining-room in the back. They have a superb chef, so don't let the very informal appearance of the place concern you. And in the same general area, Le 20e Art (in the 20th arrondissement), is a real find: run by a local family, it serves delicious and varied food; when the weather is nice, tables are set outside on the little square under the trees.
La Cave Gourmande 10 Rue du Général Brunet 75019 - Tel: 01 40 40 03 30
Le 20e Art 46 Rue des Vignoles 75020 - Tel: 01 43 67 22 29
On Rue des Rosiers, in the Marais, jewish and middle-eastern eateries abound. L'As du Falafel is noisy, busy, friendly and very crowded; you can buy food to go from the outside counter, but the line is long there too. Further down the street, on the same side, there is a bakery whose name I don't remember, but it's easy to find: it has a small dining-room and on a cold winter day, their soups and sandwiches can restore you to warmth and health, and some of the servers speak English.
And if suddenly you have an urge for Thai food, another family run restaurant is worth a trip from anywhere: Khun Akorn; the manager told me that his family runs similar restaurants in Bangkok and in London.
8 Avenue de Taillebourg 75011 - Tel: 01 43 56 20 03
I must mention my favorite "starred" restaurant, a little more expensive, but superb and still reasonable: Chez Michel. The chef-owner, Michel, is from Britanny, which probably explains why his lobster dishes are so remarkable; everything else is very fine also, I am especially partial to the lamb rack.
10 Rue de Belzunce 75010 - Tel: 01 44 53 06 20
When you occasionally crave fast food French style, give Lina's a try; there are many locations everywhere. A convenient one is at 7 Avenue de l'Opéra (75001) . Oh, by the way, on Avenue de l'Opéra, on the same sidewalk, the very very best chocolate maker in the whole wide world, holds fort: it's expensive, but you MUST NOT miss it: Côtes de France at 25 Avenue de l'Opéra (75001).
I also recommend museum dining rooms, especially at the Musée d'Orsay (19th and early 20th century art): the casual Café du Lion, and a formal dining-room, completely restored as it was in the 19th century when it was a railroad station dining-room. The Musée du Quai Branly (indigenous art, cultures and civilizations from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas) has a cafe-bistrot, Café Branly and a formal dining-room, Les Ombres, both excellent, it's just that the latter is expensive!
| Where to stay in Paris -1 february 2010  | | Hotel Elysees Ceramic - Ph. by D. Santal |
I have often referred to my Paris world in this blog, and I have occasionally alluded to some favorite places. Recently, as I was finalizing preparations for a one-week vacation for clients celebrating Valentine's Day in Paris, it occurred to me that I should put all my good addresses in a blog.
Let's start with the basics: hotels. As some of the nicest hotels are old buildings gutted and redone to be hotels, the rooms are often on the small side, but they have the most modern conveniences, including air-conditioning and double-glazed windows which keeps street noise to a minimum.
Before naming names, I should like to describe one of them, for appetite whetting purposes: it has only ten rooms, all of them overlook the Seine and the Ile de la Cité -- the Palace of Justice and Notre-Dame Cathedral are in plain, direct view. Each room is decorated in lovely sunny colors, as if we were in Provence, each is different, medium in size; the management is attentive, thoughtful and accommodating. It has a fully deserved four-star rating and is not inexpensive, but it is worth every centime, and often has specials: Les Rives de Notre-Dame.
On the Right Bank, this time, in a superb location close to the Tuileries Gardens and the Louvre, close to Place Vendôme, not far from the Opéra, this three-star hotel is contemporary and elegantly decorated; the rooms are small to medium, as is often the case in traditional Parisian buildings which have been refitted as hotels: Hôtel Duminy Vendôme.
A year ago, I accidently discovered an unusual hotel. I was walking toward the Arc de Triomphe on Avenue Wagram, when I spotted a really interesting small building. The facade was covered with sculpted Art Nouveau ceramic tiles and the street sign said Hotel Elysées Ceramic: it is a "classified" building; there are only 57 rooms, they are smallish and very tastefully decorated; the management is thoughtful and welcoming, prices quite reasonable, given the location, so close to the Champs-Elysees.
| Shanghai at last - 3 january 2010  | | Inside the Shanghai Art Musem - Ph. D. Santal |
Only one week was left to our explorations, as we left Chengdu. Here again a new Chinese experience: the "soft-seat" train -- we understand that it is the equivalent of a European First Class seat; there are hard seats, and they are very cheap, but then so are the soft seats! So we hopped on board a double-decker train: we found ourselves in a car all alone on our way to Chongqing to meet our Yangtze cruise ship. It was a very comfortable, easy and relaxing ride. A guide and driver helped with transfers and a buffet lunch at the local Holiday Inn (not very good: the food was fancy but served tepid!)
As planned, we embarked on the Century Sky: a whole "army" of super friendly ship staff was there to greet us in their smart red uniforms. We registered and found ourselves in a spacious suite with a queen-size bed, a large bathroom with shower stall, plenty of drawers and closets... very nice indeed. Every day, we were served excellent meals, and every day, an excursion, off the ship, was planned: we visited spectacular caves (Snow Jade Cave stands out in my memory), we were able to enjoy the unique scenery of the Three Gorges -- Qutang, Wu and the Xiling. We also had an interesting junk adventure along the Shennong Stream, and went pass the Five Level Ship Lock. The entertainment was amateurish but one day, we got a lesson on scarf tying (great fun), and we saw artists paint on rice paper and also inside miniscule bottles.
We disembarked in Yichang and took a plane to Shanghai where Sean and his driver met us. A bit of a surprise there, Sean is 6'2'', unusual for a Chinese. He is also delightful, well informed and interesting. By the time we met him, I had a cold and so did he... so no one felt guilty for passing it on.
As we drove to our hotel, it was fairly late in the evening, we admired the city lights. The Shanghai skyline is incredibly beautiful and we could hardly wait for the next day. Our hotel, the Sofitel, is on a pedestrian street, Nanjing Road, and walking everywhere is most convenient as it is in the city center, a five-minute walk to the People's Square.
We visited one of the great museums of China, the Shanghai Museum, beautiful architecture, both outside and inside; the collections are organized around a center court. We enjoyed a furniture display and a jade objects collection as well as a sculpture display. In the afternoon, we strolled through the Yuyuan Gardens with its traditional plants, its walks and its sculptures as well as its ponds with large goldfish. A heaven of peace in an extremely busy metropolis.
We had planned on spending three days on our own, that is to say, no guide or driver. We found the Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art, a very handsome modern building, tucked in a park on the People's Square, and difficult to find: the exhibit showed the work of the Shanghai School of Art students, the theme was cloth and thread -- their work is outstanding, most sophisticated and could easily make its way to fancy New York galleries! We also explored the Urban Design Museum with an intriguing model of downtown Shanghai: it looked like a huge toy, and we had a lot of fun spotting the buildings we had seen the day before. We found an excellent Thai restaurant for a change from Chinese cuisine (Simply Thai) and we also treated ourselves to dinner at the Sofitel restaurant whose chef serves fine euro-chinese dishes.
We left Shanghai most regretfully, not without treating ourselves to a foot massage beforehand (planned before leaving the U.S. to keep cost down), oh, it felt soooo good!
We will be returning to China in the not too distant future, it was enchanting.
P.S. I almost forgot to mention the Shanghai Music Festival! We took the subway to a large park with three different stages: one for jazz, one for rock, and one for Chinese popular music. We headed for the jazz stage and heard musicians form Israel, a whole band, and a singer from Danemark. The Master of Ceremonies is an American Ex-pat, he turned out to be a "neighbor" from Norwalk, CT -- we live in New Haven, CT!!! The music was not terribly challenging, but it was quite enjoyable.
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