A Parisian Walk: Le Marais - 25 March 2008  | | Place des Vosges - Ph. by Doug Morrill |
I grew up and was educated in Paris. I always took it for granted. Fortunately, my parents did not, and every Sunday we had to go for a family walk. I did not appreciate it at all! I just wanted to take the metro and get to our destination, whatever it was, a museum, my aunt and uncle’s apartment, a monument. I have not so fond memories of climbing all the way to the top of the Arc de Triomphe using the stairs: it would have been so much simpler, so much less tiring, to take the elevator!
Today, I can hardly wait to walk around my native city, rain or shine, in any season; my Parisian nephew amusedly pointed out that he got to know his city because I make him walk everywhere, fortunately he is grateful for that.
I don’t have favorite walks, not exactly… but I love Le Marais best of all, in the 3rd and 4th districts, on the Right Bank (marais means “swamp”, as that's what it used to be). It developed in the 17th century, under King Henri IV, just northeast of the heart of Paris (Ile de la Cité): many of its buildings are in the classical style typical of that period. I love Le Marais because it is elegant, yet informal, the streets are somewhat narrow, very busy with merchants and 20th century traffic; it has many ethnic restaurants, cheerful cafés, a youngish, yuppish crowd, there are more museums per square kilometer than in any other part of Paris.
A walking tour could start at the Saint-Paul metro station, where Rue de Rivoli becomes Rue Saint Antoine. It would be a good idea to take Rue de Turenne, walk north, and turn right onto the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois which leads to a spectacular square, Place des Vosges. Occupying most of the Place, there is a lovely park (Square Louis XIII, 17th century king of France), and all around it the typical classical brick buildings of that period; also typical of the 17th century are the sidewalks, protected from the elements under arches; there are many superb street performers who are hired by the city of Paris: they sing opera, or play jazz, or turn magic tricks… it’s all dazzling. Victor Hugo's house, a charming museum about the Romantic poet, playwright and novelist, is in the southeast corner building: I was surprised to discover that he was also a fine artist, and many of his drawings are on display.
From there, I like to wander randomly, taking any street off of the Place. Such a walk affords all kinds of delightful surprises. There is the Museum of the City of Paris, the Museum of Hunting and Nature (where there was recently an exhibit on dogs through history; a dog's armor was on display!, the Picasso Museum, the Jewish Museum, the Musée Cognaq-Jay (18th century furniture and decoration), the Doll Museum, and so on.
As to eateries, the best known is L’As du Falafel; it is extremely crowded, noisy, informal, fun, friendly, and especially delicious: Jewish food, with a North African twist, is served there. Don’t let the crowds discourage you, just arrive before you are hungry, the wait will not seem so endless: it is worth every minute! Another gem is L’Arganier: the fixed price bufffet, for Sunday brunch, is especially scrumptious and abundant.
As to the shops, they are on the trendy side, especially on the Place des Vosges, but try Rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Rue des Blancs Manteaux… You might end up at the Place de la Bastille… From there (you are now in the 12th district), follow the Avenue Daumesnil, the wide street on the right side of Opera-Bastille, and enjoy a walk along another park known as the Viaduc des Arts, up above the street.
For more information, great addresses and terrific ideas, go to:
| 
